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K so I've read so many different answers about the 2010 m series diamond drive bearing. Are they an issue? I've heard just the 09 and down are. I've heard the 10 is as well? Thanks
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Just a couple of tips
If your replacing, bearing
Put gear ..the one the bearing is going on , in the freezer.
After good and cold ,
Put bearing on piece of copper pipe, heat the copper pipe , which in turns heats the bearing , without putting direct flame on it
Bear will slip right on ... Just press down.
Piece of cake
Yes you do
Did mine last year,
Just checked this weekend after 800 miles, was fine
Sorry guys a bit off topic but I just ordered a bdx 5203 for my 09 and am wondering if I should leave the seals in or take them out? Thanks
Can't say I blame the guy for not wanting to wade through 27 pages of posts to find the answer. :face-icon-small-hapYou should read this, been covered plenty times..
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151644
I am running a 6230 without seals.
When I originally went to replace the oem (800 miles and the inner seal was loose and bearing cage falling apart), there didn't seem to be a consensus on what would be a permanent fix. With this in mind I figured I would be checking the bearing as routine maint so I replaced the oem with a skf 62032rs.
When I inspected the skf after 1200 more miles, outward appearances looked perfect. Both seals still intact but I detected very slight play so I pulled it off and popped the rubber seals. Was surprised at no grease at all and a light oil coating assumed to be dd oil. The bearing cage was cracked in a few spots but still holding balls in place.
My theory is the dd oil was washing out the grease. Once the grease was gone the only lube avail was what could seep in so the bearing was starting to show signs of failure, with the cage being the first step. If the bearing would have been run more miles, no doubt the cage would have started falling apart and dislodged the inner seal. Upon dislodging the inner seal, my theory is the bearing will continue to function for many more miles because now it is able to get dd oil for lube. My oem bearing gave no signs that it had a totally broken and disintegrating cage.
Now, I haven't ridden enough miles so haven't checked the unsealed bearing but I am betting that it will last longer than 1200 miles. It may be a few more years before I get to that point, if I don't upgrade sleds by then.
I will also add that I took a few thousandths off the shim washer because one mechanic said that will help. If the bearing lasts it will be from a combination of no seals and thinner washer. I guess a third variable could be my switching to a koto $7 bearing with higher max rpm. Also, I put 16 oz of oil vs 15 figuring 1oz shouldn't cause any problems and may help oil reach bearing, so I have 4 things I changed.