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Alternative impact 36" M-chassis a arm kit

niner

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So got my new rods trimmed up. 10 1/16" for just the rod. My skis are perfectly straight, that is maxed out for adjustment. So if you want to be on the safe side go shorter.

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Frostbite

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Mine too but, now I have 07 spindles. That makes me wonder if your 10" suggested measurement will be right on the money for earlier model M series sleds. After swapping spindles to the easy steer earlier version, I had to do a lot of messing around with length and steering stops to get the 07 spindles to turn sharper than they were designed to. It worked out well in the end.

Has anyone found the sweet spot for steering rod measurements on a pre 09 M series?
 
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K2

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Alt's 36" A-Arm/16.5" Raptor combo

Install pix of probably the most space consuming coil overs out there - these are with the suspension totally topped out/no load.

Clearance on upper a-arm's fine but I'll have to spend maybe 30 seconds or so with a die grinder on the spindle where the first coil just touches ..

IMGP1034.jpg IMGP1033.jpg
 

kidwoo

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Finally got out on these things. They're good. Pretty stoked on them.

I've got a little bit of friction drag on one side just from the new bushings but that will sort itself out. I'm no ape at 5'8" and these arms do what everyone knew they would.......just make it a little easier to roll over on stiffer snow. Did a few fresh snow climbs and I really don't notice any decreased stability......not enough that matters.

I wouldn't say they make the sled into a different beast (just like 36 arms didn't make an XP not handle like shlt) but it's definitely a noticeable improvement.

I think that 9 3/4" rod length is good. With an inch of outward toe I still have a little to adjust either way. Very few threads showing.

Happy camper. :)
 
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K2

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Finally got out on these things. They're good. Pretty stoked on them.

I've got a little bit of friction drag on one side just from the new bushings but that will sort itself out. I'm no ape at 5'8" and these arms do what everyone knew they would.......just make it a little easier to roll over on stiffer snow. Did a few fresh snow climbs and I really don't notice any decreased stability......not enough that matters.

I wouldn't say they make the sled into a different beast (just like 36 arms didn't make an XP not handle like shlt) but it's definitely a noticeable improvement.

I think that 9 3/4" rod length is good. With an inch of outward toe I still have a little to adjust either way. Very few threads showing.

Happy camper. :)

Hey Happy Camper,

all's I've got left to do now is cut my tie rods - did you cut yours to length all from the RH thread/outboard end, or take a little off each end ?
 

kidwoo

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Only cut the outboard/normal threaded end.

I didn't feel like hunting down a reverse thread tap.
 

Frostbite

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Thanks for the update Kidwoo. It's good to hear you like the A arms.

Do they make the sled unstable on the trail into the powder?

Where do you have the spacers on your skis set? Wide or narrow?
 

kidwoo

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I've got the skis set to the narrowest position with the spacers. Fits between the wheel wells in the back of my truck better. :D

Where I was riding wasn't on any groomers so the whole 50mph on smooth hard snow thing still hasn't happened yet. Riding some whooped out, off camber tracks in the woods back into some smaller drainages didn't really seem any less stable. I imagine it has to be given something off camber enough though. I'm sure they'll make high siding a little more touchy at mach stupid on a groomer.

I don't really care though honestly. It makes these sleds feel more like everyone thinks they should everywhere else. If I have to outrigger a little more on hard snow to keep it flat, that's a totally acceptable tradeoff.

I've ridden an xm with that narrow front end that still felt way more unstable in those situations where you actually WANT it to stick to the ground. That sled likes to roll over even when you don't want to it seems. (Not a fan in general of those chassis either, just FYI)
 

Frostbite

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Thanks Kidwoo. You provided some great perspective with your comments.

So, the A arms make the sled more responsive and "fickable" but not to the point where they become twitchy and unpredictable.

That's really what I wanted to know.

So, the M series with these A arms is more stable than an XM. I know the chassis on the M series is old school compared to the new sleds but, how would you say the M series with the 36 1/2" A arms will compare to a Pro RMK in technical terrain?
 

kidwoo

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I'm kind of useless for a pro comparison in that I've never ridden one on anything that matters.

Where I rode this weekend has a bunch of steepish gullies with big halfpipe walls that I was all over. It's just noticeably easier to get up on a sidehill with a quick countersteer and flick to the side. Easier to hold it too.

This is the first real snow I've ridden in this season so I expected to have sore shoulders. Didn't happen. That's a new one for me. Just a whole lot less yanking for someone my height.
 

Frostbite

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Thanks again.

Around here we need much more snow for a real good test of how they work compared to stock.

This chassis may be a bit dated but, I am thinking that with narrower A arms and a 2.6" or a 3.0" track. These sleds will hang with just about anything on the snow for a fraction of the cost of a new sled.
 

kidwoo

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.......with motors that don't fail at under 2k, and that you can modify without a computer programming degree

......and tunnels that don't bend when you fart at them

.....and no pinner jackshafts to fail

......and no goofy steering post angle that you have to move just to get it to work for counter steering

.......and SEAT STORAGE

alt impact keeping the dream alive :face-icon-small-win
 
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K2

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Thanks again.

Around here we need much more snow for a real good test of how they work compared to stock.

This chassis may be a bit dated but, I am thinking that with narrower A arms and a 2.6" or a 3.0" track. These sleds will hang with just about anything on the snow for a fraction of the cost of a new sled.

Whenever I hear anything about the M chassis being dated my mind resorts back to this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hras9XCFLI&feature=player_embedded

:face-icon-small-hap

of course he'd probably make a 250 Elan look good too ;)
 
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Frostbite

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We are all conditioned to think things are dated in an incredibly short period of time. Look at our cell phones!

The stereo equipment from the 70's is making a big comeback because it sounds really good. Yes, our M series is dated but, they sure work great!
 

kidwoo

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A kind stranger let me mess around on his pro a little bit today. Not long, just enough to do a few turns and push around a sidehill through some nicely spaced trees.


No shlt, my sled is easier to roll over than a stock 2014 pro.


In full disclosure, 'my sled' = revalved ski shocks, Alt impact narrow a-arms, polaris gripper skis, kmod skid with raptors, 2.5 CE 153, and some much more ergonomic handlebars for leaning a sled over.

But I'm not kidding. That pro took more work to get it over in mixed and soft snow. I had to pull a LOT harder on stiffer snow. I don't get it. The pro has a nice settled feel once up (and kind of a nice wide 'comfort zone') but I wasn't really blown away by it. I couldn't find the side panels........I get that part.

I was literally sitting there thinking: "wait, THIS is what everyone thinks is a total game changer?"


Thanks again for making these things!

Anyway, my habit of cruising craigslist for cheap pros just ended. I'll be riding this 2010 m8 into the ground. :D
 
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Frostbite

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Wow Kidwoo, that's amazing! You provided some excellent feedback here.
Yes, the Pro was supposed to change the world. I went on two Polaris PRO RMK day long demo rides and I didn't get the bug to buy one. I just like my M8. I guess I had better get off my butt and order my A arms.

Thanks for the great post!

Are there any more updates out there?
 
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