Proclimb Upgrades I have Done.

[spoon]

On my build on the 13 I put Zbroz 38 uppers for 16+ spindles last year because I didn't want to lose my older Evols and I think the 38 stance is better for the old bodywork. Those uppers worked perfect for the Riot spindles. A caster adjustment system for the upper A-arms may be the best option to develop as it allows you to set it to your riding preference. The Riot spindles are direct bolt on to the 16+ upper and lowers but tie rod ends need to be modified to clear lower control arms. I am keeping an eye on the movement on those spacers and bolts but a billet spacer that adds another bolt to spindle might be an option I will do to feel more comfortable with it. Spindles are cheap enough that it is worth playing around with as opposed to Elevate kit price. If I wreck a front end it is only factory parts I need to repair then,

 

[sno*jet]

You don't need to move the skis forward, just the upper A-arm. That would actually pull the skis back so keeping them in the same location you'd have to move the lower down a bit. But I like what nethercott did, that's what I'm talking about. His complaints about the ski angles when turned are what I've been talking about. Do you recognize what those lower A-arms are? I can't tell if they're the stock ones or not.

I'd probably want to stick a bunch of scales under each shock before doing anything. The skis are already pretty far forward on the layback spindles. My 153 cat is the same length as my 163 axys ski tip to back of the track.

yeah, the skis, stock cat skis anyway already stick out too far imo, make the goofy wider tips grabby when on edge. I 100% feel cat does this skis forward (and aftermarket companies) to make it lay over easier in comparison to their trail sleds. even their ski has short narrow tail with like 70% of the body in front of the spindle and right where it curves up is the only place its 7" wide.
I dont follow changes in doos spindles but am guessing the g4 lays them back more than the XP did for same reasons.
I agree, a custom upper that moves spindle mount forward would pivot the ski back a little, and would be the right thing to do in my mind using riot spindles. Was the reason i asked spoon if his 13 uppers were better than 16+ for this.
I think the article in the mag said thwe guy made his own uppers.
I actually thought the skis angle when youre turning was kinda cool for banking the snow up under the ski insted of slicing through it. but i get that it might not work good on hardpack.

 

[Old School Cat]

I have a bone stock 14 M, the first ride I had it out I hated it BUT the rear skid set up and front end pressures were way off. I dropped the limiter, added front shock pressure, dropped rear shock pressure on both chambers (mine has the EVOL in the rear).

I came off an M8 originally which I loved, but with 100 lbs in the front ski shocks, 130 in the front rear skid shock and 90 in the rear skid shock it works great. Now I weight 235, and am used to riding old school iron that had to be muscled around alot, but this one feels effortless to me now.. JMHO

 

[spoon]

Keep finding it hard to pull trigger on new Cats when all parts from 12 to 21 are mostly interchangeable. I have a 13 800 Limited I got brand new in spring of 13 for ridiculous cheap. With all the mods I have done over the years I am still under the price of a new Alpha inc what I initially paid for sled. Currently has a 175 Camso 280 with Alpha drivers, modified rear skid with custom IceAge rails and Promotion. Vanamburg 174 tunnel kit, Modded 38" front with Evols, Zbros uppers and 2020 Riot spindles (1.5" longer). Did the guage upgrade from another member here and have A/F and all temp readings on factory guage. Also did C3 belt drive. Have a BD turbo kit I bought used that will be on soon. I wanted to try the track setup by itself against a N/A Alpha to see how it performs side by side before I turbo it. Clutching setup is the 2018 Primary and Secondary. Love this sled and how it handles for me and next upgrade wont be till second year of next big chassis change at Arctic Cat. I have always bought a new Cat every time there is a major chassis change since 1996 and usually the most radical or biggest sled they had at the time.View attachment 364919View attachment 364920

Update for this year, installed a set of Raptor shocks all way around I got from a guy who traded his 38" stance sled in on a newer with 36" and installed a used low mile TSS turbo kit with which I modified to get rid of some of the reliability issues I had read about from one unhappy guy one here. Person I bought kit from might have been that guy as he didn't want to sell it to someone not experienced with turbos. Sled is now an absolute beast. Still easy to handle but power makes it even more fun. Running 8 lbs boost and no noticeable lag with the 2018 clutches. I see no reason to upgrade for a long while. Also added Powermadd adjustable riser. That 3.5 pitch track hooks up in our snow conditions so well. Added 3 grams more weight to each cam (now at 82) arm as I was bouncing off rev limiter and can't wait to try it again this weekend. The Raptors sure make it nice on the big bumps and seem to work better for transfer in the rear. Also made my own coolant heated handlebars, no more failed grids from tree branch hits.

 

[spoon]

Update on the TSS turbo kit. Running 82.5 gr Daltons at 5-7000 at 8lbs and pulling 81-8300 and near instant throttle response. Tractors through the trees with the 175. Super happy with the sled. Next year will mark 10 yrs with this sled for me. Previously never kept a sled more than 3 yrs. Nice that this chassis spans so many years and still works. I know that pisses a lot of other guys off who like change but why change what works. I haven't tried a Matryx but bought an Axys 800 163 last year that needed engine rebuild and rode it for a while and I found the Cat ergonomics superior still for me. Matryx seems to have copied a few things that Cat has been doing since 12-13. I personally think Cat has something revolutionary coming but with the manufacturing world in the state it is in they are waiting it out to release it.

 

[SNWMBL]

Interesting topic about moving the upper a-arm forward.

I have a Cat 36” front end kit I’m installing on a sled I’m building but I have to make upper a-arms due to my frame layout. I have a factory upper I was going to use to build a jig.

Since I have to build new uppers anyway, would it be better to move the upper ball joint straight forward? If so, how much? 1/4”? 1/2”? What does this do the camber throughout travel?