M7 Project Sled....More pics to come

Phizzer · Jan 24, 2013

Thanks for the info. I am going to research a little more on the gearing ratio and see where I think I would like to be. I may just end up keeping the stock ratio. I figured if I was swapping out for the light weight set I could change it up if it were worth it. The bearings all looked good too but I am half tempted to change those out while its apart.

arctic2009 said:
I meant the 55/65 is close to a crossfire 500. THey are like 54/65 or something, cant remember off the top of my head.

Phizzer · Feb 5, 2013

Finally found some "studs" for traction to use on the boards I built. They seem to be perfect for what I wanted. I went through a few different arrangements to see which I would like best and ended up with this design. I am more than happy with the outcome and should have the running boards, foot guards, and most of the cooler system done tonight!

CATSLEDMAN1 · Feb 5, 2013

m7

most of my m7 customers are most impressed with two clutching mods

gear it to the 55/65
use the orange secondary spring from the 07 and later m sleds, and use the shift assist

now the white plastic adjuster will fine tune your secondary better than any of the other cats. start at 12mm ( out side of end cap to surface of the white plastic adjuster, looser more upshif around 9-10mm.......too loose and your clutch'swill be hot, too tight clutch's will heat and you will loose upshift and won't want to make track speed in loose snow or new fluff. Don't set this and foreget it, 1/3 turn here is huge, keep playing with this until you find all the options.

M7 will easily pull lower engagement than anything cat put it ( usually yllw/white ) try a cat gold, like that and want more, try old cat red.

low gearing, low engagement, adjustable secondary you can really have a snappy tree burner.

Phizzer · Feb 7, 2013

Finally starting to look like a sled again. I ran out of studs for the other board, and haven't had a chance to get more yet. I was curious if the steering post was going to sit good in the tank bracket and still have enough of the bolt sticking through the tunnel. All is well! I am still looking for a 09+ cooler if anyone has one? If not I am just going to have to order a new one.

Phizzer · Feb 15, 2013

So BDX offers a inner idler wheel kit AND the anti stab kit. If one wants to run no wheels on the outside, I need to buy the inner idler kit and the anti?

arctic2009 · Feb 15, 2013

Phizzer said:
So BDX offers a inner idler wheel kit AND the anti stab kit. If one wants to run no wheels on the outside, I need to buy the inner idler kit and the anti?

You dont need the inner idlers if you dont run outer wheels, but your hyfax will wear a lot faster right in that area. You don't need to run the anti if you remove the outer idlers either. But I would highly suggest running an anti kit, really cheap insurance and keeps you from breaking your neck if you stab a track!

Phizzer · Feb 20, 2013

Got some parts back from powder coat. Still waiting on a few parts to finish the skid 100 percent. The skid is the stock skid from a 05 M7. It has the amp relocation brackets, but I thought I remember reading something about moving the bottom mounting hole on the front shock forward? Not sure if it was for this skid or the newer style. Any other suggestions before I put everything together??

CatmanD · Feb 20, 2013

How much of the 3m wrap did the tunnel take? Thinking about just doing the tunnel. Thx

Phizzer · Feb 20, 2013

I think I bought a 10' X 3' roll and had a little left over.

CatmanD said:
How much of the 3m wrap did the tunnel take? Thinking about just doing the tunnel. Thx

fordpickupman · Feb 21, 2013

M7

Its lookin' sharp phizzer. I like it in all black.

Now you got me to thinking about wrapping my tunnel. Has anyone had problems with the edges peeling/lifting after some use?

I'm curious about what you mentioned on the front skid shock mount relocation. I know they are moving them on the '12 Proclimbs, but I don't recall guys doing this to the Ms. I have been eye balling and thinking about it though. The problem I see with it is that by making the shock more vertical, it will be stiffer to compress and might make it trench more. I did see a pic somewhere that the owner had moved the lower shock mount back and up quite a bit. I think it may have been 4Z with his '12 Proclimb skid, but I may be mistaken here. I would think that would be the way to go. But I'm no guru, just read alot and think about it too much.

Blk88GT · Feb 21, 2013

Are you guys thinking of the "Geo" mod?

fordpickupman · Feb 21, 2013

No, as I understand it, the GEO relocates the upper rear arm mount up and forward and moves the stop for the scissor forward. I've done this to mine and it was a huge improvement in ride quality.

We're talking about the front skid shock mount location.

FORDpickupman

Phizzer · Feb 21, 2013

I've got most of the skid together. I replaced what bushings I needed to and greased everything as I assembled it. I'm waiting on a wheel and a few other nuts and bolts to finish it completely. I am wanting to get one of the Billet 2 Wheel Kits that 1100 is offering. From what I've read, the geo mod for this style skid is to move the torsion spring mount 1" back. I haven't done this yet because some were saying that it stiffened up the suspension way to much. I figured I would put it all together and try it before I drill a new hole. Other than that, and the forward mount relocation bracket, is there anything else someone would reccomend doing? Where do I want to run my limiter strap? I am not exactly positive the science behind this, and if someone could explain it that would be great. For example, what makes a sled stay planted on the ski's vs. one that will tend to lift the skis or wheelie? I should mention that a antistab kit is on the order pad, along with a set of Hyfax's.

Blk88GT · Feb 22, 2013

Let the limiter straps all the way out.

4Z · Feb 22, 2013

On my '05 skid I did swing the front/lower mount up to flatten the shock out. Had to remove the boggie wheels and use the mount they were on. It helped the front of the track climb up on the snow better (less trenching). Also did the Geo mod to rear spring mounts, but only went back 3/4". Eventually I made my own rear coupling block set up that allowed the rear springs to run in lowest preload setting. This gave the skid a supple, snow conture following effect but when more travel was encountered (like on the trail) the skid would couple and keep from bottoming. "Coupling" allows the rear soft spring to borrow spring rate from the front. Not a new concept, I used Poo 1990's parts for the blocks and by fiddling around with Pre-load setting got it the whole package to work very well. The icing on the cake was the revalve that FTX did to both shocks. Arguably the best performing stick skid I have owned. If it wasn't so much heavier than the '12 skid, I would have stayed with it.

Shane23 · Feb 22, 2013

4z : do you have pictures or a write up on the coupling setup you made?

4Z · Feb 23, 2013

Shane23 said:
4z : do you have pictures or a write up on the coupling setup you made?

Yeah, I did. My old hosting service went belly up. Will poke around and see where I saved it....

scootdog · Feb 23, 2013

Skid looks sweet digging the all black. How much did the powder coat run you? Watching this thread has the wheels turning for summer project.

Phizzer · Feb 23, 2013

4Z said:
On my '05 skid I did swing the front/lower mount up to flatten the shock out. Had to remove the boggie wheels and use the mount they were on. It helped the front of the track climb up on the snow better (less trenching). Also did the Geo mod to rear spring mounts, but only went back 3/4". Eventually I made my own rear coupling block set up that allowed the rear springs to run in lowest preload setting. This gave the skid a supple, snow conture following effect but when more travel was encountered (like on the trail) the skid would couple and keep from bottoming. "Coupling" allows the rear soft spring to borrow spring rate from the front. Not a new concept, I used Poo 1990's parts for the blocks and by fiddling around with Pre-load setting got it the whole package to work very well. The icing on the cake was the revalve that FTX did to both shocks. Arguably the best performing stick skid I have owned. If it wasn't so much heavier than the '12 skid, I would have stayed with it.

I'd like to see a picture of this setup too! I decided to leave mine where it is until I put it under the sled and actually get a feeling for it.

scootdog said:
Skid looks sweet digging the all black. How much did the powder coat run you? Watching this thread has the wheels turning for summer project.

Powder coating was bad at all. Just depends on where you go, what type of powder, number of parts. This job wasn't bad and didn't break the bank my any means. I'm going back to the same place to have some more done for the front end and misc engine components.

Phizzer · Mar 11, 2013

So I had gone back and forth about which a arms to go with, run stock or go aftermarket. I was even going to build a set, ordered up some tubing and ended up not getting what I had ordered and it was just a mess. BUT, good things come to those who are patient. I ran across a set of Holz M Series A arms. I actually got them from the producer of the Monster Mod Mania series. I think he said the dude from Holz gave them to him and they've been sitting on the shelf for awhile. Brand new never used. He even threw in a couple of his DVD's. Super nice dude and good to deal with. Anyways I'm pretty pumped about it, they should arrive here by mid week if not a little earlier. Anybody running these arms currently?

M7 Project Sled....More pics to come

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