Buying an 09 m8, got some questions

1ofakind · Sep 18, 2014

hey guys this will be my first post, basically I am looking for the pros to tell me what I should look at when I go to pick this sled up and also what you guys think of the compression test he did for me.

Anyways its an 09 Snopro Le m8, its damn near mint with only 3000kms on it and he is letting it go for $4000 cash so he can upgrade this season. His compression test came back at 115-118, his elevation is the same as mine, just over 3000ft. I was talking back and forth with him and he has had the sled for 4 years and put 2000kms on it and has maintained it well, says the diamond drive was serviced 2 years ago but was only ridden a couple hundred kms in the last 2 years. It is completely stock and I plan to leave it that way besides minor mods like a can and pipe and possibly a new lighter seat.

If someone can tell me how to post picks ill post a couple.

So should I consider doing a top end on it for preventative maintenance or leave it for the season? whats the recommended mileage to do a top end??

Also as for the diamond drive im a little worried the sealed bearing hasn't been changed in the sled yet, assuming it wasn't is there anything I can do without tearing it apart to kind of check it? I hear by manually turning the track with your hands you can hear if the bearing is shot?

any input appreciated

sledhead685 · Sep 18, 2014

I picked up an 09 M8 this summer and one of the things I did to it was put the updated bearing in the DD, because I was pretty certain it had not been done yet. I must say for how easy it is to do it would be worth opening it up to take a look. You're going to want to change the oil anyway so its not much more work to just pull the cover off and slide the gear out to check it. Mine had the original bearing in it and was surprisingly just fine, but I'm glad I put the updated one in for my own peace of mind.

1ofakind · Sep 18, 2014

sledhead685 said:
I picked up an 09 M8 this summer and one of the things I did to it was put the updated bearing in the DD, because I was pretty certain it had not been done yet. I must say for how easy it is to do it would be worth opening it up to take a look. You're going to want to change the oil anyway so its not much more work to just pull the cover off and slide the gear out to check it. Mine had the original bearing in it and was surprisingly just fine, but I'm glad I put the updated one in for my own peace of mind.

yes ill be tearing down that diamond drive as soon as I get it as a precaution. been doing a ton of reading about the diamond drive issues and machining to fit a wider bearing ect, still trying to understand it all but I have a good idea. anyways a guess it wouldn't hurt to just try the sled this season with the top end as is, it has decent compression from what I have been reading, but id like some confirmation on this at my elevation (3000ft) I will be taking it to the mountains as I get more experienced.

is there anyway to check (without tearing the gear box apart) the bearings in the diamond drive? say for example lifting the rear of the sled up and manually turning the track to hear the bearing?

btw how many kms did your sled have when you did the bearing and picked it up?

thanks

sledhead685 · Sep 18, 2014

From what I understood, different shafts have different tolerances and some need to be machined down to fit the wider bearing. Mine went together ok without doing the machining, the cover closed up flush. As far as the top end, I had the same dilemma. I got 100 psi on both cylinders here at 7,000 ft, without it having run in awhile. Being that both cylinders were exactly the same, I decided to leave it for the season. I was told it has about 3,200 kms on it. The gauge says only a couple 100 so that clearly is not right/not original. I don't know of a way to check the DD without opening it, but it really is just taking the bolts out of the cover and popping the cover off, the rest of the DD can stay in place. There are some really nice write-ups on here about how to do it, with pictures even.

1ofakind · Sep 18, 2014

sledhead685 said:
From what I understood, different shafts have different tolerances and some need to be machined down to fit the wider bearing. Mine went together ok without doing the machining, the cover closed up flush. As far as the top end, I had the same dilemma. I got 100 psi on both cylinders here at 7,000 ft, without it having run in awhile. Being that both cylinders were exactly the same, I decided to leave it for the season. I was told it has about 3,200 kms on it. The gauge says only a couple 100 so that clearly is not right/not original. I don't know of a way to check the DD without opening it, but it really is just taking the bolts out of the cover and popping the cover off, the rest of the DD can stay in place. There are some really nice write-ups on here about how to do it, with pictures even.

well thanks for the info man. I guess if the thing moves it is a good sign the dd is in ok shape haha. But yea I might just let it go for this season and tear it down for a rebuild next summer.

Its in good shape, the tunnel could use a polish and has minor scuffing on the hood and side panels from boondocking but id say im getting a pretty good deal here. He wants $4500 and I offered 4000, how can I upload a pic for you all?

summ8rmk · Sep 18, 2014

All 09's accept the wide bearing without any problems. Its the 2010 and 2011's that have issues with wide bearing install.
I bought my 09 new. I put a fresh set of pistons in at 3800 miles just because. My compression was 110-115. Thats what it was with 1700 miles too.

1ofakind · Sep 18, 2014

summ8rmk said:
All 09's accept the wide bearing without any problems. Its the 2010 and 2011's that have issues with wide bearing install.
I bought my 09 new. I put a fresh set of pistons in at 3800 miles just because. My compression was 110-115. Thats what it was with 1700 miles too.

really? that's the first I have heard about that. im in Canada so im probably safe for another season with this top end id say since everyone is saying the same you are. only 3000kms on the one ill be picking up

1ofakind · Sep 18, 2014

here are a few pics now that I figured it out, he said he has cleaned up the entire engine and even repainted the factory exhaust so it is no longer rusty. the track looks pretty good. I have more pics but they are on my phone

summ8rmk · Sep 18, 2014

if u ride any deep snow and want ur belts to last, make sure to get the frogskin vent for the hood above the clutch. (Red circle)
I can't tell if the front of the hood has the frogskins or not. If not i would suggest getting them, snow goes through the front and engine heat melts snow and u have ice blocks preventing u from opening the hood.

summ8rmk · Sep 18, 2014

if u plan on keeping the sled and ride more than trails I would really really really recommend getting this.

summ8rmk · Sep 18, 2014

if u like hot food, rivit a muffpot to the top of ur can (red circle). Use steel rivits, aluminum will only last a few rides. I have the exact same sled and climbing a few hills i could cook 3-4 sausages in 15-30 minutes and burn them in 1 hr. Now with the slp pipe set and muffpot on slp can it takes 3hrs to warm up sausages.

summ8rmk · Sep 18, 2014

here is a pic of mine installed. About 20 minutes of cooking. And yes the aluminum heat shield is excellent for toasting the buns!
Don't forget the mustard.

1ofakind · Sep 18, 2014

I was thinking about the vent kit, didn't know which company to look at but ill definitely take a look at the frog skins and the bulk head support you are recommending. If there an issue with the durability of the stock bulk head? Should I worry about clutching just yet? a lot of my riding would most likely be at higher elevations than my home elevation.

btw that cooker is an awesome idea! haha

1ofakind · Sep 18, 2014

as for major mods or expensive mods I will try and save them for next summer as a project. Im thinking when I do the top end ill throw a rk tek head on it also. I think for the season ill leave it mostly stock with a can and pipe, vent kit, seat, ect.. just easy stuff till I can learn some more about the sled and the riding ill be doing

summ8rmk · Sep 18, 2014

Trust me on the bulkhead support, do it before u have a problem.
Turning the handlebars one direction pushes down on tunnel and the other direction lifts the tunnel so it ends up cracking right above the heat exchange if not the heat exchange itself.

summ8rmk · Sep 18, 2014

If u do a pipe and a head u will need a fuel controller.

arctic2009 · Sep 19, 2014

I would just put the slp full pipe set on, then you dont need a fuel controller. Dont mess with their clutching, the weights with their rivet system kind of sucks. Just get a good set of adjustable weights with set screws. Then save the money on the head and put it towards a 2.6 powerclaw. The track is by far the best upgrade you could do on that sled, besides a muffpot lol. You should be able to find a cheap shorty seat somewhere, that will also make the sled feel a lot better. Those older seats really suck.

zachman33 · Sep 19, 2014

summ8rmk said:
View attachment 236516if u plan on keeping the sled and ride more than trails I would really really really recommend getting this.

This is a definite must in my opinion, the m-rite support saves your bulkhead from cracking. My DD exploded on me loading up my sled to move it to my shop with 1300 miles on it. To be on the safe side I would change it out, put the updated bearing and fresh oil in it to be safe. My sled is at 2600 miles and my compression is at 100-115, and still running like a champ. At about 2500-3000 miles is when most people rebuild there clutching as well.

Best of luck!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

1ofakind · Sep 19, 2014

Thanks for all the replies! I plan on keeping it for a while. We do get a lot of snow where I live so will be tons of powder so I guess this year I'll invest in the frog skins, full slip (really like the idea of no fuel controller), seat because the stocker sucks haha, and I'll save my pennies for a track and a top end next summer and bulk head support.

Since everyone is saying do the updated bearing I'll be tearing that apart right away.

The bulk head support must be quite the job to install I would imagine? Could I save it till next summer and be alright without it? Where does it usually crack?

sledhead685 · Sep 19, 2014

Looks to be in great shape, I would say you got an awesome deal.

Buying an 09 m8, got some questions

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