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2010 diamond drive bearing

D
Nov 6, 2012
116
12
18
K so I've read so many different answers about the 2010 m series diamond drive bearing. Are they an issue? I've heard just the 09 and down are. I've heard the 10 is as well? Thanks
 
C
Feb 28, 2011
195
46
28
dd bearing

09 and up are actually the problem bearings. I've replaced two so far with under 2000 miles and both were junk and really close to causing major problems. It's a fairly easy fix, and one that should be done to every 09 and up sled as preventative maintenance.
 

Coldfinger

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
2,351
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Nebraska
I have read so many opinions on what causes the problem and what the best solution is, for at least the 2010 m8, I am currently running a 6203 without seals

I figure until/if a user friendly permanent fix is found, I will be checking the bearing every 1000 miles or so anyhow and I may as well install a new $8 bearing while it is opened up.

My oem bearing cage was shot and maybe some balls missing at 800 miles. No signs but found upon inspection.

I replaced with a double sealed skf 6203. I checked that bearing after another 1150 miles and it looked good. Both seals intact but I detected just a tad of looseness so I pulled the bearing. Popped the seals and discovered a light coating of oil and no bearing grease. Upon closer insp noticed the bearing cage was cracked in a few spots. This prompted my new theory that the grease is being washed out by dd oil and then the only lube avail, the dd oil, can not sufficiently lube the bearing because not enough oil gets by the seals. This causes cage failure and then popping one of the seals out. Now oil can lube it but the damage is already done.

I replaced the skf 62032rs with a koyo 6203 without seals. So far I have only about 500 miles so I have not inspected yet. I also ground a few thousandths thickness from the spacer washer because I agree side loading is part of the problem. If this works I will only know that my problem was some combination of lube and side loading.

Having said all that, I wouldn't hesitate to try an unsealed bearing which is a double row angular of no greater width than the oem/washer combined. I forget if an actual angular double row of that dimension is avail but I believe a 3203 is at stronger double row regular bearing that some people have used.
 
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G
Dec 16, 2007
88
16
8
Washington
Just a couple of tips
If your replacing, bearing
Put gear ..the one the bearing is going on , in the freezer.
After good and cold ,
Put bearing on piece of copper pipe, heat the copper pipe , which in turns heats the bearing , without putting direct flame on it
Bear will slip right on ... Just press down.
Piece of cake
 
1
Sep 16, 2014
36
1
8
Just a couple of tips
If your replacing, bearing
Put gear ..the one the bearing is going on , in the freezer.
After good and cold ,
Put bearing on piece of copper pipe, heat the copper pipe , which in turns heats the bearing , without putting direct flame on it
Bear will slip right on ... Just press down.
Piece of cake

good idea, used to do this with quad ball joints, works awesome
 
G
Dec 16, 2007
88
16
8
Washington
Yes...replaced the single bearing , which has about 3 ball bearings left,
and put the double bearing in last year....after 800 miles looks good.

the single was totally shot at 850 miles the first year I used it.

so yes replace, first time I did it, took 1.5 or so...but I took mine time.

this last time, had it out in 20 minutes, after clean up and checking it out.
about 20 minutes to put back in and tighten everything up.

You might mess a little with it getting back in, till the gear lines up, and you
are over the top of the bolts....but not that difficult.

Leave the Rubber piece on the left side that snugs it in...in place when you pull out and when you put back in.
 
1
Sep 16, 2014
36
1
8
Sorry guys a bit off topic but I just ordered a bdx 5203 for my 09 and am wondering if I should leave the seals in or take them out? Thanks
 

PowderEatin

Member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
105
5
18
SW Idaho
Seals or No Seals

I also have the same question about seals or no seals and I've read for 3 hours on here and cannot come up with a conclusion. I'm replacing the bearing with a 5203 from BDX on a 2010 M8. Sounds like removing the seals are the way to go but do they get enough oil?
 

Coldfinger

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
2,351
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113
Nebraska
I am running a 6203 without seals.

When I originally went to replace the oem (800 miles and the inner seal was loose and bearing cage falling apart), there didn't seem to be a consensus on what would be a permanent fix. With this in mind I figured I would be checking the bearing as routine maint so I replaced the oem with a skf 62032rs.

When I inspected the skf after 1200 more miles, outward appearances looked perfect. Both seals still intact but I detected very slight play so I pulled it off and popped the rubber seals. Was surprised at no grease at all and a light oil coating assumed to be dd oil. The bearing cage was cracked in a few spots but still holding balls in place.

My theory is the dd oil was washing out the grease. Once the grease was gone the only lube avail was what could seep in so the bearing was starting to show signs of failure, with the cage being the first step. If the bearing would have been run more miles, no doubt the cage would have started falling apart and dislodged the inner seal. Upon dislodging the inner seal, my theory is the bearing will continue to function for many more miles because now it is able to get dd oil for lube. My oem bearing gave no signs that it had a totally broken and disintegrating cage.

Now, I haven't ridden enough miles so haven't checked the unsealed bearing but I am betting that it will last longer than 1200 miles. It may be a few more years before I get to that point, if I don't upgrade sleds by then.

I will also add that I took a few thousandths off the shim washer because one mechanic said that will help. If the bearing lasts it will be from a combination of no seals and thinner washer. I guess a third variable could be my switching to a koto $7 bearing with higher max rpm. Also, I put 16 oz of oil vs 15 figuring 1oz shouldn't cause any problems and may help oil reach bearing, so I have 4 things I changed.
 
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PowderEatin

Member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
105
5
18
SW Idaho
I am running a 6230 without seals.

When I originally went to replace the oem (800 miles and the inner seal was loose and bearing cage falling apart), there didn't seem to be a consensus on what would be a permanent fix. With this in mind I figured I would be checking the bearing as routine maint so I replaced the oem with a skf 62032rs.

When I inspected the skf after 1200 more miles, outward appearances looked perfect. Both seals still intact but I detected very slight play so I pulled it off and popped the rubber seals. Was surprised at no grease at all and a light oil coating assumed to be dd oil. The bearing cage was cracked in a few spots but still holding balls in place.

My theory is the dd oil was washing out the grease. Once the grease was gone the only lube avail was what could seep in so the bearing was starting to show signs of failure, with the cage being the first step. If the bearing would have been run more miles, no doubt the cage would have started falling apart and dislodged the inner seal. Upon dislodging the inner seal, my theory is the bearing will continue to function for many more miles because now it is able to get dd oil for lube. My oem bearing gave no signs that it had a totally broken and disintegrating cage.

Now, I haven't ridden enough miles so haven't checked the unsealed bearing but I am betting that it will last longer than 1200 miles. It may be a few more years before I get to that point, if I don't upgrade sleds by then.

I will also add that I took a few thousandths off the shim washer because one mechanic said that will help. If the bearing lasts it will be from a combination of no seals and thinner washer. I guess a third variable could be my switching to a koto $7 bearing with higher max rpm. Also, I put 16 oz of oil vs 15 figuring 1oz shouldn't cause any problems and may help oil reach bearing, so I have 4 things I changed.

I sure hate to take perfectly good seals off a bearing, so it may be a gametime decision (later tonight haha). Thanks for the input. There are enough people reporting grease washed out that I think it's fair to assume the bearing gets enough oil but I sure hate to take a chance.

Was planning to take the DD out of the sled to work on it, but the 16mm bolt in the track drive shaft will not come out, I think it is rounded off. So one thing at a time......
 

Coldfinger

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Nov 26, 2007
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Nebraska
Let us know how you get the rounded bolt out.

It is possible to reinstall the seals if u are careful not to damage them. A lot of guys pack the bearing with more grease and put the seals back on. From what I read on the bearing mfr sites too much grease may cause the balls to slide rather than roll and that is not good either. That is why they use the amt of grease they do.
 

Paul27

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Dec 25, 2008
119
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Reno, NV
The 09, 10 and 11 sleds have DD issues. Bearing seals and grease are bad. Check your axial load - every sled is different - due to poor manufacturing QC at Arctic Cat. The 3203 bearing has the same dimensions as the 5203, just newer and better quality.
 
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